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Guy Ren� Do Bois, "Mr and Mrs Chester Dale Dine Out" (1924)

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IN THIS ISSUE
� LA RECHERCHE DU PARIS,
Part One
By John A. Curtas

NEW YORK CORNER


THE INN AT POUND RIDGE BY JEAN-GEORGES
Past John Mariani

Some other VERMEER
Chapter ELEVEN
By John Mariani

NOTES FROM THE SPIRITS LOCKER
IRISH WHISKEY'S POPULARITY SOARS
By John Mariani


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On this week's episode of my WVOX Radio Testify "Near Golden," on Wed. March 16 at 11AM EST,I will be speaking about the foretime restaurants of the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s in Westchester Canton NY.  Go to: WVOX.com. The episode will also be archived at: almostgolden.



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� LA RECHERCHE DU PARIS,
Part Ane
Text and Photos by John A. Curtas

�If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris equally a swain, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with y'all, for Paris is a moveable feast.� � Ernest Hemingway

A merican writers have been rhapsodizing about Paris since Ben Franklin�due south powdered wig was peeking down some mademoiselle�s bustier. There�s not much I can add to the musings of anybody from Henry James to Ernest Hemingway, just I can share a few pointers on what to see and where to eat, forth with some thoughts of my own about what makes the Urban center of Light then compelling, one-hundred years subsequently Ernest & Friends cruel in honey with it.
Every time I run across Paris�s low profile and history-drenched boulevards, I experience like a wonderstruck x-year-old seeing a large city for the first time. Rick Steves�south aphorism, �Traveling is living intensified,� seems especially true on the streets of Paris, where awesome architecture defines every corner, your senses are excited on every block, and sweetness surrender beckons under a relentless assault of good things to consume.

The "Lost Generation": Ernest Hemingway, Pauline Pfeiffer, Hadley Hemingway, John Dos Passos  and Gerald Murphy.

One of the most impressive things well-nigh Paris is the mind-blowing number of places to feed and refresh yourself. Caf�south and bistros have always been in abundance, only the patisseries/boulangeries (technically non the aforementioned thing, only often combined) seem to accept doubled in number over the past ii decades. The size of the brasseries and the sheer number of caf�south means you�ll never go hungry or thirsty, no affair what the hr. My wife, poor matter, has always operated under the illusion that there is something to do in Paris other than eat and drink. Occasionally, I agree to do a footling site-seeing and shopping, just to buy some marital harmony.
Amazingly though, we really lose a few pounds on every visit. Five to ten miles of walking each day practise the trick, no thing how many baguettes, cr�pes and souffl�s nosotros ingest. My communication to anyone traveling to Paris is to always find a caf� to phone call your own on your first day in the metropolis, preferably close to your hotel. (This volition not be hard; on some blocks there are six of them.) Stop past every morning for a quick caf� au lait or allong� and y'all will start to feel similar a local in no time. By your third visit, even the frostiest waiter volition start to smile when he sees yous.
Take your time (the French do): Say, �Encore, southward�il vous plait� � and they let you camp there all day, diddling your telephone, reading a book, or planning where next to consume, which is the surest way to brand y'all feel like a Frenchman.
The French may have invented blas� (the give-and-take and the mood), but no matter how many times I visit (this last trip was my tenth), it is the one feeling I never have because I�one thousand too busy picking my jaw off the pavement, when I�m not using information technology to wine and dine. All you lot have to do to savor yourself in Gay Paree is give in to the Parisian vibe (by turns energetic one minute, and insouciant the next), leave your American expectations at abode, relax, stroll around a chip, and say �bonjour!� and �south�il vous plait� about thirty times a 24-hour interval. Do that and the French are almost as dainty equally Italians.
Breakfast? Fuggidabadit. In France, breakfast (�petit d�jeuner�) is good for only one affair: thinking nearly lunch. So allow�s become to it.

�We had eaten very good common cold craven at apex but this was withal famous craven country so nosotros had poularde de Bresse and a bottle of Montagny, a light, pleasant white wine of the neighborhood.��Ernest Hemingway.

CHEZ 50�AMI LOUIS
32 Rue du Vertbois
+33 one 48 87 77 48

Straight off the plane, still groggy from crossing the ocean, we staggered into L�Ami Louis, still ane of the toughest chophouse tickets in Paris. It was worth the look, which for me had been xx-five years, a quarter century of hearing virtually its allure to ex-pats, celebs, and galloping gourmands, followed by a revisionist decade (starting 10 years ago) of how gauche, laissez passer� and �not worth it� it was. It is the 1 bistro critics love to hate. Especially British critics, as you�ll see below.
Since its founding in 1924, the just things that accept changed are the prices and the dress of the patrons. Some accept called its interior �museum-like.� Others, like the tardily, great, splenetic A. A. Gill, described it as �painted, shiny distressed brown dung�set with labially pink cloths which give information technology a colonic appeal and the awkward sense that you might exist a suppository.� Nasty, Brit-lit gymnastics bated, what you find when you enter is a classic, narrow, well-worn chophouse that feels equally comfortable every bit a favorite sweater on a frosty twenty-four hour period. Where Gill establish �paunchy, combative, surly men� waiting tables, all we saw were affable-if-brusque, seen-it-all pros. Gill (who died in 2016, and whose hemorrhoids must�ve been acting upward in 2011 when he wrote those words) also savaged the nutrient. As much as nosotros loved his knives-out style, we found ourselves silently pleading with his ghost throughout our ii-hour lunch. Au contraire, mon fr�re, we muttered continually.
From three ethereally silky slabs of foie gras to our deviled veal kidneys to the famous roast chicken, this was Parisian bistro cooking at its nearly elemental and satisfying. True, the recipes probably haven�t inverse since Bogart was wooing Bergman, but that�s office of the charm.
Where Gill found the foie gras to exist �oleaginous and gross,� our bites were of the smoothest, purest duck liver. A mount of shoestring fries came with our oversized bird, and better ones we tin can�t recall. Ditto the escargots, brimming with butter and electric light-green parsley, soft, slightly chewy and shot through with garlic in all the best ways. No mistake could be found with the vino listing either (pricey for a chophouse, just not off-putting), or a baba au rhum the size of a human head.
Gill concluded his hatchet task by calling 50�Ami Louis the �worst eatery in the earth.� It may not exist the best old-schoolhouse bistro in Paris, simply it�south a long way from deserving such opprobrium. The prices are high, but not enough to put you on your heels, peculiarly if you�re used to Las Vegas. (Tiffin came to well-nigh 200 euros/pp, with about one-half the tariff existence wine.)

LE D�ME
108 Boulevard du Montparnasse
+33 ane 43 35 25 81

�As I ate the oysters with their potent gustatory modality of the ocean and their faint metallic taste that the cold white wine done away, leaving only the bounding main gustation and the succulent texture, and as I drank their cold liquid from each trounce and done it down with the well-baked taste of the wine, I lost the empty feeling and began to be happy and to brand plans.� � Ernest Hemingway

Montparnasse is chock full of expert restaurants, many of which, like Le Select (1925), La Rotonde (1911) and La Cloiserie des Lilas (1847), are haunted by the ghosts of Gertrude Stein, Hemingway and Henry Miller. These cafes formed the social hub of Roaring Twenties Paris, and, amazingly, continue to concord their own today, one-hundred years after they became American-famous. Le D�me remains le ultimate seafood brasserie in a neighborhood teeming with them. All gleaming glass and contumely, it has become de rigueur to cease there for oysters whenever nosotros get to boondocks.
Like m any of its equally renowned neighbors, Le D�me is huge, so don�t call up twice most dropping in on a whim for a douzaine plate and a glass of Sancerre. Classics similar Breton lobster and Dover sole (correct) are prepared and so perfectly they remind yous why these dishes became part of the French gastronomic canon. The freshness of its seafood is legendary, fifty-fifty in a boondocks known for legendary fresh fish and shellfish. Whether you lot�re in for a bite or hunkering downwards for a total meal, Le D�me can dazzle with the best of them. For dessert: don�t miss the mille-feuille Napol�on (sliced from a pastry the size of a rugby football)�which elicits �oohs� and �aahs� for both its appearance and gustatory modality.
A note about the supposed insufferable French: This was our 3rd visit to Le D�me in the past four years, but we are hardly �known� to the direction. On each visit, whether as a walk-in solo or with reservations, we have always received a friendly welcome from the solicitous staff who couldn�t be more helpful in guiding us to the best oysters of the day and which wine to pair with them.
You leave of restaurants what you put into them, and if you walk into Le D�me with a happy middle, information technology will merely make you lot happier.
Dinner came to 310 euros for two, including a bottle of pricey-merely-non-overpriced (150 euros) Puligny-Montrachet.

LE COQ & FILS
98 Rue Lepic, 75018
+33 one 42 89 82 89

�A walk about Paris will provide lessons in history, beauty, and in the point of life.� �Thomas Jefferson

After cruising Montparnasse one day, we trekked up the hill to Montmartre, to visit Le Coq et Fils (formerly Le Coq Rico), Antoine Westermann�south paean to poultry. Climbing upwards to Sacr� Coeur basilica and exploring the cobblestoned streets of this �village inside a city� puts you lot in an appetite to have downward an entire yardbird, accompanied past a variety of other Westermann signatures like poultry broth �shots� (perhaps the near intense chicken soup I�ve always tasted), duck rillettes, and egg mayonnaise �Westermann�s Mode��a gorgeous puck of umami-laden egg salad (below).
Merely the undeniable stars of the bear witness are the whole birds, and we opted for a four-pound Bresse specimen of unsurpassed flavor. From the crispness of the skin to the fineness of the grain to the richness of the flesh, these are flocks which put to shame the universal putdown of �tasting like craven.� Of course, the olive oil-drenched pommes puree and straight-from-the-fatty frites don�t hurt one�southward enjoyment of this succulent beauty either. The birds are sized and sold co-ordinate to how many y'all want to feed (for instance, a guinea hen and smaller birds are sized for 2). Yes, everything truly does �taste like chicken,� as in: the all-time craven you have always tasted.
The wine list was modest in scope but interesting and reasonable (we chose a Maurice Schoech Alsace Grand Cru Riesling with the craven, at 100 euros), and the service couldn�t have been ameliorate. For dessert we took downwards an Ile Flottante (�floating island�), a light version of this classic with a softball-sized meringue and so blusterous it seemed to be floating in a higher place the swishy puddle of cr�me Anglaise beneath it.
Although the blueprint, and the artistic side dishes and approach are much more mod here than at L�Ami Louis, prices were much softer, with our shared bird/vino lunch running 100 euros/pp.


John A. Curtas is a food writer and author of Eating Las Vegas: The 52 Essential Restaurants


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NEW YORK CORNER

THE INN AT POUND RIDGE
BY JEAN-GEORGES

258 Westchester Avenue
Pound Ridge NY
914-764-1400

Text and Photos by John Mariani

Westward ith more than 40 restaurants around the world, including twelve in New York alone and branches in Due south�o Paulo, Guangzhou, Jakarta and Marrakesh, information technology is fair to say the Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who is considered one of the finest and most influential chefs in the earth, is at present more of an overseer than a chef you tin expect to find in any i of his restaurants.
Decades ago this immature Alsatian chef first fabricated his mark as chef de cuisine at two superb restaurants run past French master Louis Outhier, post-obit up with his own namesake eating house in Trump Tower at Columbus Circle. I have long given high praise to several of JG�s New York operations, on 4 occasions listing them amid Esquire magazine�s �Best New Restaurants of the Twelvemonth.� But those few I�ve visited outside of New York have been largely facsimiles that brought his style to far-off ports-of-phone call but little of the intensity and savoriness of the cooking at his dwelling base of operations, where he spends much of his time.
Opening in the New York northern suburb of Pound Ridge, an hour from Manhattan, came as a surprise until you lot learn that he has a house nearby, and, I�ve been told, the idea of an inn, rather than a splashy restaurant, appealed to his Alsatian roots.
The premises were long agone the venerable Emily Shaw�due south Inn, opened in the 1930s and airtight in 1989, a typical suburban dinner business firm of its twenty-four hour period, where her signature item was cheddar cheese soup. Subsequently it became The Inn at Pound Ridge until JG took over and attached his name to information technology a few years ago.
It�s a very beautiful infinite, dating to 1833, set on two levels, with a handsome bar, four fireplaces and a vino cellar room, all washed in a canny residuum of beamed rusticity and romantically lighted modernity by Thomas Juul-Hansen. It is, withal, very loud, even mid-week, buoyed by the brash crescendos of a crowd yakking about IPOs and debentures, ownership short and selling long, and their opinion of the new Porsches, many of which fill the parking lot.
The staff, dressed in L.L. Edible bean-style lumberjack shirts, could not be more than affable or knowledgeable, and they seem wholly sincere in their cordial greetings and farewells.
T he carte du jour is described as serving �down-to-world nutrient,� which is true, and y'all won�t find the kind of Asian fusion dishes JG made trendy twenty years ago, when the phrase �farm-to-table� get-go appeared as a p.r. marketing merits. It is food that JG�s clientele will find much of at their land clubs. There is even the obligatory sparse-chaff pizza section ($xix-$22) and a cheeseburger ($24). At that place�s nothing particularly wrong about whatever of it, just it is all too rubber and hardly shows off the scintillating breadth and depth of JG�due south repertoire.
Thus, an appetizer of tuna tartare with avocado, radish and ginger marinade ($25), of a kind JG debuted, is at present ubiquitous. Crispy salmon sushi (left) with a chipotle mayonnaise and soy glaze ($22) is delicious, but a little bland. An abundant steamed shrimp salad (below) with mesclun, avocado and champagne vinegar dressing ($25) is, in one word, refreshing, while a butternut squash soup with wild mushrooms ($15) is platonic for this cold weather, equally vegetal and sweet and wholly hearty.
A mong the master courses, steamed black sea bass with a carrot confit, orange juice and a touch of cumin and olive oil ($52) reminds me of like items at JG�s ABC Kitchen in New York, but a simple roasted chicken ($38) was and then dried out from cooking that its broccoli di rabe, salsa verde and sage could not resuscitate it. A prosciutto-wrapped pork chop with glazed mushrooms and sage ($48) was also overcooked, and the cheddar cheeseburger (below) with frizzled onions, yuzu pickles, winter pink tomato ($24) was overwrought and non specially beefy, with all the ingredients of the same mushy texture. The side of French fries, all the same, was terrific.
Desserts toe the aforementioned comforting line: a pleasing carrot cake with cream cheese frosting ($14); a tangy-sweetness Meyer lemon cr�me br�l�east with smooth mint-lime sorbet ($14) and a dish JG perfected and made famous around the world: a molten chocolate cake with vanilla bean ice cream ($16). The just unusual dessert was a classic Australian passion fruit Pavlova ($14), named after ballerina Anna Pavlova, with a passion fruit sorbet, which has a brittle outside crust cracking open to reveal the passion fruit within (right).
The Inn�southward wine list is substantial without beingness overwhelming, but in that location are very few bottles under $100. (I ordered one of them and was told I got the terminal bottle, usually indicative that a lot of people want to drink at that toll level.) There are 13 wines by the drinking glass ($xiv-$36). Mark-ups are all over the place, many quite reasonable, but others off the charts, like the Lutum Durell Vineyards Chardonnay 2015 that retails for $49 just is $219 hither. A Spottswoode Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 sells for $85 in a store, at the Inn, $268.
Past the way, I did ask how often JG actually was nowadays at his eatery and was told by one waiter, very rarely, and by some other, that he used to come ofttimes �when it opened years ago.�
T here is and so much to similar nigh the Inn, but information technology�s a stretch to say it�due south easy to love, given the pedigree of its possessor. Those who live in local mansions and drive Teslas surely detect it a comfy driblet-in kind of identify (though getting a reservation tin can have perseverance), just those who do non live inside ten miles may find it not worth the effort.

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Another VERMEER

By John Mariani

To read previous chapters of Another VERMEER, go to the archive


Chapter ELEVEN

�Then what�d you think?� asked Katie as they left the Mirage.
�I recollect Wynn'due south a straight shooter,� said David. �Sounds like a guy with nothing to hibernate, except maybe his loathing for Harry Balaton. So, do y'all call back Wynn�s going to be a bidder?�
�I don�t know. My enquiry shows he�southward never yet bid anything close to what the Vermeer might go for. Though, if he sticks it in his ain museum in his ain hotel, in that location�s got to be tax breaks or write-offs he tin can have reward of.�
�I don�t know anything nigh that, but if there is, a guy like Wynn volition know how. So, what practice we do most Balaton?�
�Well, now that we�ve seen his arch enemy, we can use it to get in to encounter him. At least I promise so. Still, I�1000 glad I got the Wynn interview just in case.�
�Yous have breakfast?� asked David.
�Coffee in my room.�
David said, �Dominion number one while traveling: Never drink that sludge coffee in the room. Anyway, I missed breakfast, likewise. I know: I�ll take you to the Omelet Firm�it�south been in Vegas forever�and they accept all these goofy dishes with names like �The Kitchen Sink (below)� and �The Loch-Ness Monster.��
�Sounds mannerly.�
�Eggs are fresh.�
After a very, very hearty meal at The Omelet House, Katie and David went dorsum to the Baccarat and asked to be put through to Harry Balaton�southward office. After due south
several transfers, Katie finally got on with the head office, which was on the 6th floor, and later explaining why she wanted to run across Balaton she was asked where they might become back to her.
�Oh, we�re staying right hither in the Baccarat. I�m in Room 332.�
An 60 minutes later the telephone rang in her room.
�Miss Cavuto? Will you hold for Mr. Balaton?�
�Yes, of course.�
The line clicked and Katie could hear a gruff male voice shouting into a speaker phone, something about a catering problem.
�What the fuck do I know nearly catering?� the voice said, then he came on Katie�south line.
�Aye, hi, this is Harry Balaton. Who�south this?�
�My name is Katie Cavuto and I spoke to your assistant . . .�
�Aye, aye, she told me you spoke to Steve Wynn about his shitty art collection and you wanted to speak to me about mine.�
Katie said, �If that�s convenient for you, sir.�
�And you�re hither in my hotel?�
�Yes, Room 332.�
�Okay, come to the individual elevator on the northeast corner of the lobby, tell them you�re coming upwardly to see me.� And that was that.
Katie called David and told him to meet her at the elevator, whose security man already had their names and brought them up to the sixth floor. This time, the outer part was garishly decorated with green, black and silverish wallpaper; in a corner stood a aureate nymph and in some other a matching nude male effigy beckoning to her.
�Miss Cavuto and Mister Greco?� asked the secretary. �Please come up right in.�
Harry Balaton�due south door was already open and Katie heard the same frog-like vox she had on the phone. Balaton was once again shouting into a speaker phone, this time about some loftier rollers coming in that dark from Hong Kong. �Full comp, Casanova Suite.�
In most ways, Balaton looked every inch the casino tycoon�not very tall, balding with a comb-over, something like comedian Don Rickles, wearing a deep burgundy suit, white-on-white shirt and golden silk tie. He didn�t get up from his chair, so Katie and David couldn�t see the pucker in his pants, or if he was wearing whatsoever.
He waved Katie and David in, said, �Have a seat,� and finished his phone phone call.
�And then, you�re a magazine reporter,� he began. �And y'all are?� he added, nodding towards David. �You lot look familiar.�
�I used to exist a New York City rackets cop. I met you once when y'all turned state�s evidence.�
�That must�ve been it.� Balaton seemed wholly unfazed by having an ex-cop in his office. He started talking before they could inquire him a question.
�First of all, I could purchase and sell Wynn, if I wanted, and I could outbid him on anything that comes to auction. He tell y'all that? No, I don�t suppose he did. Wynn thinks he�s going to completely transform this city into something high-class, only what he doesn�t realize is that nobody wants that shit. They don�t call it Sin Urban center for nothing, y�know. People come here because of the glitz, the bar girls, the dealers with the cord ties and fluffy shirts. Even the high rollers from Asia and Russian federation, they don�t desire Vegas to look like freaking Monte Carlo, which is dying because they don�t have slots.�
Katie bankrupt in and asked if she could use her tape recorder. Balaton waved his hand to indicate go ahead.
�Nosotros did desire to enquire yous about the new Vermeer coming on the market soon,� she said afterward turning on the recorder.
�Yes, I know all nearly it.�
�You exercise?�
�Well, I know it�s being hyped to the skies as the most expensive pic ever auctioned off, and if that�s true, in that location�due south just a handful of collectors who will get in the game. That schmuck Japanese guy, what was his proper name, Saito? He pushed the price so high on that van Gogh, knowing he�d accept to sell it and someone would take to pay more, considering first he said he�d cremate the damn thing, and then said he wouldn�t show it to anyone. Dumbest goddamn thing I ever heard.�
�So, do you think the price may not be as high as the $82.five Saito paid for the van Gogh, if the Vermeer goes to auction?� asked David.
�I hope not. I�d love to bid on the picture, but I�thou not going that loftier. Hell, nobody�south fifty-fifty seen the goddamn thing.�
�And then, if you wouldn�t become that high, who would?� asked Katie.
�I�d say there�due south no more than five people who could beget that kind of money, specially if he�s just going to stick it in a vault somewhere or keep information technology out of sight. Information technology might exist a syndicate of some kind.�
Recalling that Balaton was in some way connected to a Hong Kong syndicate with holdings in Macao, David ventured to ask, �What about Chinese money?�
Balaton rubbed his nose, and so said, �South�not out of the question. But no one simply an asshole like Saito could come upwardly with that kind of cash on his ain. Could exist Russian Mafia.�
�Why would a mob, Russian or otherwise, want to dabble in collecting fine fine art?� asked David, who knew a good deal about the workings of the former Soviet republics� mobsters.
Balaton said, �Damned if I know. In the one-time days the Italian and Jewish wiseguys who ran Vegas didn�t take the slightest interest in owning or even fencing art. It was but a world they didn�t know; stealing and fencing a famous painting was not like stealing and fencing diamonds or bonds.�
�Merely you lot did mention the Russian Mafia,� said Katie.
�Well, maybe, because they�ve got some very wealthy wiseguys of their own who would love to own the painting for a while, so sell it afterwards for a turn a profit without having to steal it in the showtime place.�
David idea to himself that mobsters never think that way. Information technology�s easier to steal something and ransom it, just the criminals who rob fine art are generally small-time crews contracted by an individual. In the instance of the stolen Mona Lisa in 1911 the culprit was an Italian petty criminal named Vincenzo Perugia (above) who tried to sell it 2 years later for 500,00 lira to a Florentine fine art dealer, who immediately called the law and had the thief arrested.
David sensed that Balaton did not want to say anything more near a Hong Kong Syndicate existence involved in either bidding for or perhaps even bringing the painting to auction.
�So, just to be clear, Mr. Balaton, yous believe whoever bids on this Vermeer is so,e kind pf reclusive billionaire who's not going to reveal anything about himself.".
�Information technology won't be a museum. I doubt even the Getty would bid the kind of money expected. I recollect it might be a syndicate with a gallery owner as its front man.�
�Whatever suggestions?�
�If I hear of whatsoever, I�ll let you know,� Balaton said, standing upwards, with pants on, �but I gotta get back to piece of work. Enjoy my hotel while you�re here.�
Katie and David headed down to the gaudy lobby of the Baccarat.
�So?� asked Katie.
�I recollect he knows more than he�southward letting on at this point,� said David. �Remember, this guy ratted out his mob friends and enemies to save his own ass, only there�s pretty solid evidence he�s in with a Hong Kong Syndicate, and Macao is the Wild West when information technology comes to political corruption, skimming and laundering money.�
�Well, he did seem to wholly discount anyone in Nippon having money like Saito did to purchase the painting. What about the Japanese mob, the Yakuza?�
�That,� said David, �is a vast subject with equally many interlocking tentacles as you could ever imagine. But they�re almost entirely linked to extortion, drugs, pornography, human trafficking�and they insist information technology is dishonorable to steal anything. Go figure. I can ask Gerald Kiley, only I uncertainty the Yakuza take anything to exercise with art.�
Katie stifled a yawn and said, �Well, I think we got what we came for out here. Some practiced leads as to where not to await.�
David smiled at her and said, �You gotta recollect, Katie, we are not involved in a criminal investigation here. Nobody�s committed a crime. At least non yet.�
�Oh, I know, just then many people in this global art market seem, shall we say, on the shady side. So many secrets, so many prospects for cheating, then much hype. Not to mention the possibility of forgery.�
�Maybe so, but let�s not forget: Nobody�due south even seen this painting, much less examined it. The whole thing may be one big hoax.�
�Well, if it is, I hope it makes for a good story, considering my ternion is getting pretty short. The interview with Wynn should cutting me some slack, but something new improve turn upward soon or there�s no story.�
David didn�t like hearing that.
They parted to go back to their rooms to pack and get a carmine-eye flight back to New York. When Katie entered her room she saw a pink note pad on her night table. (This being Vegas it read: WHILE YOU WERE OUT COLD.)  The bulletin said, �Telephone call me. I have some news. John Coleman.�
Katie looked at her scout. Four o�clock Pacific Time, which meant seven in New York. Katie dialed the phone number, simply it rang until a voice bulletin said Coleman was out of the office and unreachable until tomorrow. Katie cursed herself for not having his home phone number, so she packed quickly and met David in the lobby to catch a taxi to McCarran Airport.


John Mariani, 2016


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NOTES FROM THE SPIRITS LOCKER

FROM FOUR TO FORTY DISTILLERIES, Ireland
CAPITALIZES ON ITS WHISKIES� SOARING SUCCESS

By John Mariani


Copper pot stills used to make Waterford Irish Whiskey

I t�s difficult to believe that twenty, even x, years ago liquor shop shelves carried piddling more than than two or three Irish whiskies. These days that number is more likely to exist 10 to twelve, and there are more coming into the market all the time. Indeed, sales of Irish gaelic whiskey are soaring, with 11.iv million 9-litre cases sold globally in 2020. Estimates for 2021 are to mail service a jump to xiii million cases, and the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States has recently reported that 5.9 million cases were sold in the U.S. terminal year, representing a nearly eighteen% increase in 2021. The numbers are all the more than astonishing when y'all learn that equally of 2010 there were only four distilleries operating in Ireland; today there are forty, with more existence built, some with visitors� centers.

The vast bulk of Irish whiskeys utilize malted barley dried over coal fires, though some, like Connemara and Killbeggan, are, like Scotch, dried with peat fume, which gives the latter a smokier flavor and the quondam more aromatics. Both malted and unmalted barley are distilled three times in a pot all the same to make Irish whiskey, later which lighter and heavier whiskies are blended for a house manner.
                                                                Barley harvest

For many years the dominant Irish whiskey has been Bushmills, which has the globe�s oldest distillery on record (1608), in County Antrim, and the most popular has been its bones label, affectionately called �White Label,� which actually is a fine standard introduction to a whiskey that Tzar Peter the Nifty once declared the best spirit in Europe. The same distillery�s Black Bush-league ($39) has been a considerable hitting here, with a more than pronounced maltiness and a nigh Sherry-like, soft end on the palate. The firm now markets a slew of variants, including a x-Year-Old Unmarried Malt ($55), 12-Year-One-time ($50), 16-Year-Old ($140) and 21-Yr-Old ($210) to compete with the success of Scotch Single Malts.
Jameson (left), which dates just to 1780 in Dublin, is a solid contender, though a fiddling lighter on the palate than bones Bushmills. I used to love its 12-Year-Old, but it�s been discontinued and difficult to find, and then now I the rich just very smooth blend of barley and wheat Blackness Barrel ($45) aged in double-charred barrels. The 18-Twelvemonth-Old goes for $130.
John Power & Sons dates to 1791 as a
�public house� in Dublin (said to be the origin of the term pub), with an attached distillery, and was one of the first to bottle its whiskies from oak barrels. It begins dry out and most severe, only it mellows on the palate and takes on dainty caramel-like notes, so comes up once more with just the right heat in the finish and a little sweetness. Its Gold Label sells for $30; its 12-Year- Old for $lxx.
Tullamore Dew gets its name from �Tulach Mhoŕ� (big hill), while the �Dew� is not a fanciful metaphor but the letters of full general manager Daniel. Eastward. Dew�s name, and the company motto is �Requite every human his Dew.� Tullamore has gone gang busters with various iterations, including its basic brand ($30), a 12-Yr-Erstwhile ($lx), fourteen-Year-Old ($80), 18-Yr-Old ($109), Old Bonded Warehouse Release Single Malt ($65), XO Caribbean Rum Finish ($40) and Cider Cask Stop ($35).
A s with other brown spirits, the Irish whiskey producers have latched onto the concept of �iterations� or "expressions" based on crumbling in unlike ways and dissimilar casks, which include those once used to make Sherry, Cognac, rye and bourbon.
Like many others, Lambay does non accept its own distillery merely buys spirits from others� and has an identifiable evergreen taste and bouquet. Made on a private isle visitable only by rare invitation, Lambay is but fabricated in small batches with local well water, emerging from Cognac barrels at 40% alcohol ($63).

Proclamation�s characterization calls it �Ireland�s Independent Spirit,� honoring the country�s independence motility of 1916. This is a big and bold whiskey, 40.7% booze, finished in bourbon casks with �a touch of sherry finished malt� to round out a toasted finish. Another bottling is done in Cognac barrels ($35).
Every bit noted in a contempo interview hither with J.J. Corry Irish gaelic Whiskey �s owner Louise McGuane, she sought to bring dorsum the tradition of Whiskey Bonding, becoming the first Whiskey Bonder in Republic of ireland in well over 50 years. She built a Rackhouse (warehouse) on the family farm and began to build a library of Irish Whiskey flavors from whiskies from distilleries all over the island and casks from all over the world, matching the spirit to cask and blending selections to create unique expressions. Its four whiskeys run $65-$87.
Busker�s, located at the Royal Oak Distillery in County Carlow, makes all four styles of Irish whiskey:
Single Grain ($xl), Unmarried Pot Still ($37), Single Malt ($45) and Blend ($20). Its distinguishing marking is that during the aging process of the blends Triple Cask Triple Smoothen ($33) and Unmarried Grain expressions the spirits are in Cantine Florio Sicilian Marsala vino casks.
Waterford is producing a new kind of pure single malts, the Cuv�e ($100) and Luna 1.1 ($120), marketing them more like Bordeaux wines from unique terroirs, even using extended fermentation of the harvested grains. Twenty-five various whiskies go into the Cuv�e, which they telephone call a �radical celebration of complexity� and a �prototype shift.� I wouldn�t go quite that far, but these are distinguished and refined spirits.
Clonakilty ($55) is a minor-batch Irish gaelic whiskey (2,400 bottles) made from eight-year-old grain and bottled at a whopping 62% alcohol, finished in rye casks obtained from the Virginia whiskey maker Catoctin Creek.
Due south o, likewise, Keeper�s Hearts ($39), whose Latin motto is �Fugit hora� (the hour flies), is besides blended with 4-yr old Irish grain whiskey and the aforementioned amount of Irish pot still spirits and American rye at 43% alcohol, crafted by primary distiller Brian Nation. The first reveals a pleasant vanilla note, the second spiciness and the rye provides a good edge.



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OH, SHUT UP AND Pass THE Saccharide


�Capitalism and caffeine are hand in paw. If you want any proof of that, only look at the institution of the coffee break... Your employer non simply gives y'all a free drug at the at the workplace, but gives you a place and time in which to enjoy it twice a twenty-four hours, in well-nigh places. Why would employers do that if it didn�t offering them more benefit than price? And clearly it does. They become more work out of people.��Michael Pollan, Gastropod (2/22)


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 Any of John Mariani'due south books below may be ordered from amazon.com.

The Hound in Heaven (21st Century Lion Books) is a  novella, and for anyone who loves dogs, Christmas, romance, inspiration, even the supernatural, I hope yous'll find this to be a treasured  favorite. The  story concerns how, later a New England teacher, his married woman and their two daughters adopt a stray puppy plant in their barn in northern Maine, their lives seem full of promise. But when tragedy strikes, their wonderful dog Lazarus and the spirit of Christmas are the merely things that may bring his master back from the edge of despair. Lookout man THE VIDEO! �What a huge surprise turn this story took! I was completely stunned! I truly enjoyed this volume and its message.� � Actress Ali MacGraw

�He had me at Page I. The amount of eye, homo insight, soul searching, and deft literary force that John Mariani pours into this airtight novella is vertigo-inducing. Possibly �wow� would be the best annotate.� � James Dalessandro, author of Bohemian Heart and 1906.

�John Mariani�s Hound in Heaven starts with a well-painted portrayal of an American family, along with the requisite dog. A surprise upshot flips the activity of the novel and captures us for a voyage leading to a hopeful and heart-warming message. A page turning, one sitting read, it�south the perfect antidote for the wintertime and promotion of holiday celebration.� � Ann Pearlman, author of The Christmas Cookie Lodge and A Gift for my Sister.

�John Mariani�s concise, achingly beautiful novella pulls a literary rabbit out of a hat � a mash-up of the catholic and the intimate, the tragic and the heart-warming � a Christmas tale for all ages, and all faiths. Read it to your children, read it to yourself� but read it. Early and oftentimes. Highly recommended.� � Jay Bonansinga, New York Times bestselling author of Pinkerton�s War, The Sinking of The Eastland, and The Walking Dead: The Route To Woodbury.

�Amazing things happen when you lot open your middle to an animal. The Hound in Heaven delivers a powerful story of healing that is forged in the spiritual relationship between a man and his all-time friend. The book brings a message of hope that can enrich our images of family unit, honey, and loss.� � Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment.

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The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink by John F. Mariani (Bloomsbury USA, $35)


Modesty forbids me to praise my ain new book, but let me proudly say that it is an extensive revision of the 4th edition that appeared more than a decade ago, before locavores, molecular cuisine, modernist cuisine, the Food Network and so much more, at present included. Word origins have been completely updated, as have per capita consumption and product stats. Most of import, for the first time since publication in the 1980s, the book includes more than 100 biographies of Americans who have inverse the mode we cook, swallow and drink -- from Fannie Farmer and Julia Kid to Robert Mondavi and Thomas Keller.


"This book is amazing! It has entries for everything from `abalone' to `zwieback,' plus more than 500 recipes for classic American dishes and drinks."--Devra Offset, The Boston Globe.

"Much needed in any kitchen library."--Bon Appetit.




At present in Paperback, too--How Italian Food Conquered the World (Palgrave Macmillan) has won top prize  from the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.  It is a rollicking history of the food culture of Italy and its ravenous embrace in the 21st century by the unabridged world. From aboriginal Rome to la dolce vita of post-war Italy, from Italian immigrant cooks to celebrity chefs, from pizzerias to high-course ristoranti, this chronicle of a culinary diaspora is as much about the globe'southward changing tastes, prejudices,  and dietary fads as about our obsessions with culinary fashion and style.--John Mariani

"Eating Italian will never exist the same after reading John Mariani'due south entertaining and savory gastronomical history of the cuisine of Italy and how it won over appetites worldwide. . . . This volume is such a tasteful narrative that information technology will literally make you hungry for Italian nutrient and arouse your ambition for gastronomical history."--Don Oldenburg, USA Today.

"Italian restaurants--some skilful, some glitzy--far outnumber their French rivals.  Many of these establishments are zestfully described in How Italian Nutrient Conquered the World, an entertaining and fact-filled relate past nutrient-and-vino correspondent John F. Mariani."--Aram Bakshian Jr., Wall Street Journal.

"Mariani admirably dishes out the story of Italy�s remarkable global ascent to virtual culinary hegemony....Like a chef gladly divulging a cherished family recipe, Mariani�s book reveals the secret sauce about how Italy�s cuisine put gusto in gusto !"--David Lincoln Ross, thedailybeast.com

"Equal parts history, sociology, gastronomy, and merely manifestly fun, How Italian Food Conquered the World tells the captivating and delicious story of the (allow's face up it) everybody's favorite cuisine with clarity, verve and more than ane surprise."--Colman Andrews, editorial managing director of The Daily Repast.com.

"A fantastic and fascinating read, covering everything from the influence of Venice's spice trade to the affect of Italian immigrants in America and the evolution of alta cucina. This volume will serve as a terrific resource to anyone interested in the real story of Italian food."--Mary Ann Esposito, host of PBS-TV's Ciao Italia.

"John Mariani has written the definitive history of how Italians won their way into our hearts, minds, and stomachs.  It's a story of pleasure over pomp and taste over technique."--Danny Meyer, owner of NYC restaurants Union Square Cafe,  The Modern, and Maialino.

FEATURED LINKS : I am happy to  report that the Virtual Gourmet is  linked to four fantabulous travel sites:

Everett Potter'southward Travel  Report:


I consider this the best and savviest web log of its kind on the  web. Potter is a columnist for U.s.a. Weekend, Diversion, Laptop and Luxury  Spa Finder, a contributing editor for Ski and  a frequent contributor to National  Geographic Traveler, ForbesTraveler.com  and Elle Decor. "I�ve designed this site is for people who have their  travel seriously," says Potter. "For travelers who want to acquire about special  places merely don�t necessarily want to pay through the olfactory organ for the privilege of  staying there. Because at the terminate of the twenty-four hour period, information technology�southward not so much about five-star  places every bit five-star experiences."

Eating Las Vegas JOHN CURTAS has been covering the Las Vegas nutrient and restaurant scene since 1995. He is the co-author of EATING LAS VEGAS � The 50 Essential Restaurants (as well as the writer of the Eating Las Vegas web site: www.eatinglasvegas. He can also be seen every Friday forenoon as the �resident foodie� for Wake Up With the Wagners on KSNV TV (NBC) Aqueduct 3  in Las Vegas.


MARIANI'South VIRTUAL GOURMET NEWSLETTER is published weekly. Publisher: John Mariani . Editor: Walter Bagley. Contributing Writers: Christopher Mariani, Misha Mariani, John A. Curtas, Gerry Dawes, Geoff Kalish. Contributing Photographer: Galina Dargery. Technical Advisor: Gerry McLoughlin.

If you wish to subscribe to this newsletter, delight click here: http://world wide web.johnmariani.com/subscribe/index.html

� copyright John Mariani 2022


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